Fort Jefferson, Dry Tortugas

Jan 18, 2017
3 min read

Have you ever wanted to be alone on a deserted island with your special someone? There's a way to do it about 70 miles off the coast of Key West, Florida. Dry Tortugas is one of the most unusual National Parks we have visited so far. It consists of five or seven islands (depending on wave activity) and the main island is the site of Fort Jefferson which started being built in the 1840s and was abandoned, unfinished in 1874. It is surrounded by crystal-clear waters, healthy coral reefs and other marine life. Most visitors to the island are daytrippers, but we were able to pull off an overnight stay because my parents live in Florida, so we were able to drive with all of our gear from their home to Key West. The only means of staying overnight is primitive camping. This means you bring all your own gear and food. You have access to outhouses and that's it. So, while it is secluded and romantic and definitely a unique experience, you do pay the price in comfort.

The easiest way to access Dry Tortugas is by booking passage on Yankee Freedom, the park's official ferry out of Key West. www.drytortugas.com. Literally, a three-hour tour, and you're at the dock. The tour guides keep it interesting while you're on board as they provide a significant amount of backstory before you arrive at Fort Jefferson. Upon arrival at Fort Jefferson, the guys on the ferry pass out snorkel gear, then provide private tours of the Fort. Our guide was one of the best we have had at any National Park. While the ferry is docked, the passengers are free to explore all of the islands,climb the steps and walk along the top of the Fort, and swim or snorkel around the moat. When we visited, a crocodile was living in the moat, so it was challenging to snorkel without wondering whether you were going to come face-to-face with a croc.

Finally, the time comes when all the daytrippers get back on the ferry and it pulls away, leaving behind about 10 people willing to camp out in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico. We kissed Ethan and my parents goodbye as they headed back to Key West. It felt strange watching our son, our transportation and any contact with civilization pull away. It was comforting, however, knowing that if there was an emergency, somewhere within the walls of Fort Jefferson were Park Rangers, with beds, kitchens, satellite TV and phone service. It was just those of us crazy enough to camp that were left without the comforts of home. Once the boat pulled away, no one was around. Jamie and I had Fort Jefferson and the waters around the moat to ourselves. We meandered through Fort Jefferson, we went swimming in the clear blue waters, and I even snorkeled the entire outside walls of the moat, while Jamie walked above keeping an eye out for that crocodile. We ate our sub sandwiches with beer and wine and got ready to watch the sunset. As we sat on the moat walls watching the sunset, we realized we should be on top of Fort Jefferson, so at the last minute we ran up the steps to the area above the Fort entrance and watched the sun slip into the Gulf.

After sunset, we walked the moat. After dark, we sat near the water's edge and in the water were fish that glowed bright blue! When we looked up at the stars we could see more stars than either of us have ever seen back home. The constellations were hidden by the other stars shining so brightly. The next morning, we explored the outer reaches of the nearby islands cherishing being all alone. When the next round of daytrippers showed up, we were at once relieved but also sad that we would have to share this special place with others.